{"id":1479,"date":"2026-10-08T13:16:38","date_gmt":"2026-10-08T13:16:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/?post_type=novo_guide&#038;p=1479"},"modified":"2026-10-08T13:16:38","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T13:16:38","slug":"tesla-model-3-pre-purchase-inspection","status":"publish","type":"novo_guide","link":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/repair-guides\/tesla-model-3-pre-purchase-inspection","title":{"rendered":"Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Buying a used electric car is a different kind of homework. A <strong>Tesla Model 3 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/services\/pre-purchase-inspection\">Pre-Purchase Inspection<\/a><\/strong> isn&#8217;t about checking the oil or listening for a timing chain rattle \u2014 it&#8217;s about battery health, drive unit condition, suspension wear, and whether the car has quietly been through a collision that a quick walkaround won&#8217;t reveal. The Model 3 is a genuinely reliable vehicle, but the used market is full of high-mileage rideshare cars, early-build units with known hardware quirks, and repaired salvage vehicles wearing a clean coat of paint. This guide walks you through everything a thorough Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection should cover, so you can buy with confidence instead of hope.<\/p>\n<h2>Why a Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection Is Different From a Gas Car Inspection<\/h2>\n<p>On a conventional car, most of the money lives in the engine and transmission. On a Model 3, most of the money lives in the high-voltage battery pack and, to a lesser degree, the drive units. Those components rarely fail outright \u2014 but when they do, the repair bill is in a completely different category than a water pump or alternator.<\/p>\n<p>That shifts the priorities of a Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>No oil, no spark plugs, no timing belt.<\/strong> There&#8217;s no engine oil, no transmission fluid service on most units, and no exhaust system to rust out. Whole categories of gas-car problems simply don&#8217;t exist.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Battery degradation replaces engine wear.<\/strong> Instead of compression tests, you&#8217;re assessing how much usable range the pack has lost relative to its original capacity.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Software history matters.<\/strong> Feature entitlements like Full Self-Driving capability, Acceleration Boost, and Premium Connectivity are tied to the car in Tesla&#8217;s system \u2014 and they don&#8217;t always transfer the way a seller claims.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Body repairs are harder to spot and harder to fix.<\/strong> The Model 3 uses a mix of steel and aluminum with structural castings in later builds. Poor collision repair is a real risk and a real safety concern.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A good inspector adapts the process accordingly. If a shop tells you they&#8217;ll &#8220;check the fluids and put it on the lift,&#8221; they&#8217;re inspecting the wrong car.<\/p>\n<h2>Step One: Verify the Car&#8217;s Identity and History<\/h2>\n<p>Before anyone touches a wrench, confirm you&#8217;re looking at what the listing says you&#8217;re looking at. This part of a Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection costs nothing and eliminates a surprising number of bad buys.<\/p>\n<h3>Decode the VIN and confirm the build<\/h3>\n<p>The VIN tells you model year, build location, and drive configuration. Cross-check it against the listing and against the car itself \u2014 the VIN appears on the driver&#8217;s side windshield base, the driver&#8217;s door jamb sticker, and in the touchscreen&#8217;s software menu. All three should match.<\/p>\n<p>Key generational notes to confirm:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>2017\u20132020:<\/strong> Early builds. Chrome exterior trim, more reported panel-gap and water-intrusion complaints, and the original Autopilot hardware generations.<\/li>\n<li><strong>2021 refresh:<\/strong> Black exterior trim, heat pump heating system (a significant cold-weather efficiency improvement), powered trunk, double-pane front glass, and a revised center console.<\/li>\n<li><strong>2023\u20132024 &#8220;Highland&#8221; refresh (where available):<\/strong> Redesigned front and rear fascia, new interior, rear touchscreen, and a stalkless steering wheel on many builds.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Also confirm the drivetrain: Standard Range \/ Standard Range Plus (rear-wheel drive), Long Range (dual motor), or Performance (dual motor, larger brakes, lowered suspension). Sellers occasionally advertise a Long Range when they&#8217;re holding the keys to an RWD car.<\/p>\n<h3>Run a title and accident check<\/h3>\n<p>Pull a vehicle history report and check for salvage, rebuilt, flood, or lemon-law branding. Then check the federal recall database directly \u2014 the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration lets you look up open recalls by VIN at no cost. Tesla handles many recalls through over-the-air software updates, but not all of them; steering, seat belt, and hardware recalls require a service visit.<\/p>\n<p>A branded title isn&#8217;t automatically disqualifying, but it changes the math. Tesla has historically restricted Supercharger access on some salvage-titled vehicles, and insurance and resale value both take a permanent hit. If the car is rebuilt, the Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection needs to be twice as thorough \u2014 and you need a price that reflects the risk.<\/p>\n<h2>The Heart of the Inspection: High-Voltage Battery Health<\/h2>\n<p>The battery pack is the single most valuable component in the car, and assessing it properly is the main reason to invest in a professional Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection rather than relying on a test drive and a handshake.<\/p>\n<h3>How to estimate real range capacity<\/h3>\n<p>Tesla doesn&#8217;t display a simple &#8220;battery health: 91%&#8221; readout, so the estimate has to be built from observed data:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li><strong>Set the display to percentage, then compare at a known charge level.<\/strong> Switch the range display to miles, note the projected range at 100% or at a known state of charge, and compare it to the car&#8217;s original EPA-rated range for that model year and configuration.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Check the rated miles per percent.<\/strong> Divide the displayed range by the state of charge. Comparing that figure to the car&#8217;s original rating gives a reasonable degradation estimate.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Review recent energy consumption.<\/strong> The energy graph shows average watt-hours per mile over the last 5, 15, and 30 miles. Unusually high consumption with no obvious cause \u2014 cold weather, roof rack, aggressive driving \u2014 is worth investigating.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Watch for charging restrictions.<\/strong> Some packs with internal faults show a reduced maximum charge rate or a message limiting charging. That&#8217;s a serious finding.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Some degradation is completely normal and expected. Most Model 3 packs lose a meaningful chunk of capacity in the first 20,000\u201330,000 miles and then settle into a much slower decline. The pattern matters more than the number: a car at five years and modest loss is healthier than a newer car that&#8217;s already fallen off a cliff, because the latter suggests heavy DC fast-charging, frequent 100% charging, or a developing module issue.<\/p>\n<h3>Ask about the battery and drive unit warranty<\/h3>\n<p>Tesla&#8217;s battery and drive unit warranty on the Model 3 runs for a set number of years or miles \u2014 typically 8 years with a mileage cap that varies by trim, and a minimum battery capacity retention threshold. It transfers to subsequent owners. Verify the in-service date (the date the first owner took delivery, not the model year) because that&#8217;s the clock that matters. A 2019 car delivered in late 2019 has meaningfully more warranty left than one delivered in early 2018.<\/p>\n<p>Part of any serious Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection is documenting exactly how much factory coverage remains. It can be worth thousands of dollars in negotiating leverage.<\/p>\n<h3>Don&#8217;t confuse the 12V battery with the main pack<\/h3>\n<p>The Model 3 also carries a low-voltage battery that powers the computers, door locks, and contactors. Earlier cars use a lead-acid 12V battery; later builds use a lithium-ion low-voltage battery. When it dies, the car can become completely unresponsive \u2014 doors won&#8217;t open, the screen won&#8217;t wake, and the car won&#8217;t move, even with a full high-voltage pack. It&#8217;s an inexpensive part compared to anything else on the car, but it&#8217;s a common roadside failure and a routine reason owners book a <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/services\/battery-replacement\">Battery Replacement<\/a><\/strong>. If the seller mentions intermittent screen reboots or a &#8220;low voltage battery needs service&#8221; alert, factor that in.<\/p>\n<h2>Drive Units, Suspension, and Steering<\/h2>\n<h3>Listen for drive unit noise<\/h3>\n<p>Model 3 drive units are durable, but front drive units on dual-motor cars have generated their share of complaints about whine, hum, or a milling noise under light acceleration. During the road test, drive with the windows up and the audio off, then:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Accelerate gently from 20 to 50 mph and listen for a rising whine that tracks with speed.<\/li>\n<li>Lift off and coast through regenerative braking \u2014 a clunk or rattle on transitions between power and regen can indicate a half-shaft or motor mount issue.<\/li>\n<li>Reverse at low speed in a quiet area and listen for grinding or knocking.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Some electric whine is completely normal on an EV. What you&#8217;re listening for is a noise that changes character, grows under load, or sounds mechanical rather than electrical.<\/p>\n<h3>Check the suspension and control arms<\/h3>\n<p>The Model 3 is a heavy car on relatively firm suspension, and bushings and upper control arms are a known wear point. Common findings during a Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection include:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Front upper control arm noise<\/strong> \u2014 a creak or knock over low-speed bumps and parking lot speed, often from the ball joint or bushing.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Worn lower control arm bushings<\/strong>, especially on cars that have lived on rough roads.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Leaking shocks or struts<\/strong>, visible as oily streaking down the damper body.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Uneven tire wear<\/strong>, which is both a symptom and a cost \u2014 Model 3 tires are expensive and wear faster than most owners expect due to instant torque and vehicle weight.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Measure tread depth on all four tires and check for inner-edge wear, which usually means the alignment is out or the suspension is tired. Budget accordingly; a set of tires plus an alignment is a real number.<\/p>\n<h3>Steering components<\/h3>\n<p>Check for play in the steering, clunks when turning lock to lock at low speed, and any steering-related warning messages. Tesla has issued recalls affecting steering components on some builds, which is another reason to run that VIN through the NHTSA lookup.<\/p>\n<h2>Brakes: Less Wear, Different Problems<\/h2>\n<p>Regenerative braking means Model 3 friction brakes often last far longer than on a comparable gas car. The flip side is that lightly used brakes corrode. In humid or salted-road climates, it&#8217;s common to find pads bonded to rotors, seized caliper slide pins, and heavily rusted rotor surfaces on a car with plenty of pad material left.<\/p>\n<p>During the inspection, the mechanic should:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Measure pad thickness at all four corners.<\/li>\n<li>Inspect rotors for deep scoring, rust pitting, and lip buildup at the edge.<\/li>\n<li>Check caliper slide pins and dust boots for seizure or tearing.<\/li>\n<li>Evaluate brake fluid condition \u2014 Tesla recommends periodic brake fluid testing and replacement, and it&#8217;s frequently neglected.<\/li>\n<li>Test for pulling, pulsation, or a long pedal during the road test.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If the inspection turns up seized hardware or badly corroded rotors, that&#8217;s a legitimate negotiating point and a straightforward <strong>Brake Repair<\/strong> a mobile mechanic can handle in your driveway after the sale.<\/p>\n<h2>Body, Glass, and Collision Damage<\/h2>\n<p>This is where a careful Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection earns its keep, because a well-executed repaint can hide a lot.<\/p>\n<h3>Use a paint depth gauge<\/h3>\n<p>A paint thickness gauge reads the coating depth on each panel in microns. Factory paint is fairly consistent across a car; a panel reading two or three times its neighbors has been refinished. That doesn&#8217;t automatically mean a major accident \u2014 it could be a door ding repair \u2014 but it tells you where to look harder.<\/p>\n<h3>Inspect structural indicators<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Panel gaps:<\/strong> Model 3 gaps were never perfect from the factory, especially on early cars, but they should be symmetrical side to side. A gap that tapers dramatically on one side only suggests a repair.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Bolt heads and fasteners:<\/strong> Look at fender bolts, hood hinge bolts, and bumper fasteners for tool marks or broken paint \u2014 evidence a panel has been removed.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Seam sealer and undercoating:<\/strong> Factory seam sealer has a consistent, machine-applied look. Hand-smeared sealer in the trunk well or under the hood frunk liner is a red flag.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Trunk and frunk wells:<\/strong> Pull the carpet and spare-tire area liner. Look for wrinkling, fresh paint overspray, or non-factory welds.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Casting repairs:<\/strong> Later Model 3 builds use large single-piece castings in the rear structure. These are difficult and expensive to repair properly. Evidence of work in that area deserves serious scrutiny.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Check for water intrusion<\/h3>\n<p>Early Model 3s had documented complaints about water collecting in the trunk and taillight housings. Pull the trunk liner and check for standing water, water staining, musty smell, or corrosion on the metal. Also inspect the cabin footwells and under the rear seats.<\/p>\n<h3>Glass and roof<\/h3>\n<p>The Model 3&#8217;s glass roof is a single large panel and is costly to replace. Inspect it carefully for chips, cracks, and delamination at the edges. Check the windshield for chips in the driver&#8217;s line of sight and \u2014 importantly \u2014 confirm whether the windshield is original or aftermarket. Camera-based driver assistance systems are mounted at the windshield, and a replacement glass that wasn&#8217;t properly calibrated can cause Autopilot faults.<\/p>\n<h2>Interior, Electronics, and Software Checks<\/h2>\n<p>The Model 3 interior is minimalist, which means almost every function routes through the touchscreen. Test all of it methodically.<\/p>\n<h3>Touchscreen and computer<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Check for screen yellowing around the border \u2014 a known issue on some units, sometimes addressed under warranty.<\/li>\n<li>Look for dead pixels, delamination, or touch dead zones.<\/li>\n<li>Confirm the screen doesn&#8217;t reboot spontaneously during the drive.<\/li>\n<li>Check the software version and whether the car is current on over-the-air updates. A car stuck several versions behind may have connectivity or hardware issues.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Autopilot hardware and feature entitlements<\/h3>\n<p>Open the software menu and confirm exactly which features are enabled: basic Autopilot, Enhanced Autopilot, or Full Self-Driving capability. Also note the Autopilot computer version. Sellers sometimes advertise FSD that was a subscription rather than a purchase \u2014 subscriptions don&#8217;t transfer with the car. Verify in the vehicle&#8217;s own menu, not in the listing.<\/p>\n<h3>Everything else, one at a time<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>All four window motors, up and down, including auto-close.<\/li>\n<li>Both front seat motors, heated seats (all five positions on equipped cars), and the heated steering wheel.<\/li>\n<li>Climate control in heat and A\/C, plus defrost. A weak A\/C system on a Model 3 is a heat-pump or refrigerant-circuit concern and a reason to look at <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/services\/ac-recharge\">AC Repair<\/a><\/strong> before you buy, not after your first hot week.<\/li>\n<li>Cameras: front, rear, repeaters, and pillar cameras should all display cleanly with no fog or condensation inside the lens.<\/li>\n<li>Sentry Mode, dashcam storage, Bluetooth pairing, phone key, and key cards (confirm you receive at least two key cards).<\/li>\n<li>Trunk and frunk latches, charge port door, and the charge port latch itself.<\/li>\n<li>Door handles \u2014 the Model 3&#8217;s flush handles can stick or fail, particularly in freezing climates.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Watch for electrical fault codes<\/h3>\n<p>Intermittent warning messages, phantom alerts, or modules that drop offline point to a wiring or module problem. Those can be time-consuming to trace, and they&#8217;re exactly the kind of issue worth resolving with proper <strong>Electrical &amp; Diagnostics<\/strong> work before you commit to the purchase rather than discovering it in month two.<\/p>\n<h2>Charging: Test It, Don&#8217;t Assume It<\/h2>\n<p>A Model 3 that won&#8217;t charge reliably is a Model 3 you can&#8217;t use. A complete Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection includes real charging verification:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Level 1 or Level 2 AC charging:<\/strong> Plug it in and confirm the car accepts a charge at the expected rate. Check that the charge port latch engages and releases properly.<\/li>\n<li><strong>DC fast charging:<\/strong> If possible, take it to a Supercharger. Confirm the car initiates a session, confirm Supercharging isn&#8217;t restricted (an issue on some salvage-title cars), and watch the peak charge rate at a low state of charge.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Charging equipment included:<\/strong> Confirm which mobile connector, adapters, and cables come with the car. These are not cheap to replace.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Charge port condition:<\/strong> Inspect the pins for discoloration, melting, or corrosion. Heat damage at the port is a serious finding.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Ask the seller about their charging habits, too. A car that lived on DC fast charging at 100% every day has had a harder life than one that trickle-charged to 80% at home \u2014 and the pack data usually reflects it.<\/p>\n<h2>The Road Test: What to Feel For<\/h2>\n<p>Drive the car for at least 20 minutes on a mix of surface streets and highway. Specifically evaluate:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Straight-line tracking<\/strong> on a flat road with hands light on the wheel. Pulling suggests alignment or prior damage.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Regenerative braking smoothness<\/strong> \u2014 it should be linear and predictable, with a seamless handoff to friction brakes.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Noise over bumps<\/strong>, with the radio off and windows up. Creaks and clunks are the suspension telling on itself.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Autopilot behavior<\/strong> on a clearly marked highway, if it&#8217;s safe and legal to engage. Watch for erratic lane centering or sudden disengagements, which can indicate a miscalibrated camera.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Full-power acceleration once<\/strong>, in a safe location, to confirm the car delivers rated performance without reducing power.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Warning messages<\/strong> that appear during or after the drive.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Using the Inspection to Negotiate<\/h2>\n<p>A written Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection report turns vague concerns into line items. Instead of &#8220;the tires look a little worn,&#8221; you have measured tread depths, a documented alignment issue, and a clear picture of what the first 90 days of ownership will cost you.<\/p>\n<p>Typical findings that justify a price adjustment:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tires below roughly 4\/32&#8243; of tread, or uneven wear requiring alignment.<\/li>\n<li>Control arm or bushing noise.<\/li>\n<li>Seized brake hardware or heavily corroded rotors.<\/li>\n<li>A 12V\/low-voltage battery near end of life.<\/li>\n<li>Battery degradation meaningfully worse than typical for the mileage.<\/li>\n<li>Cabin filter, brake fluid, or A\/C desiccant service that&#8217;s long overdue.<\/li>\n<li>Evidence of unreported collision repair.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you&#8217;re buying from a private seller, the report is also a useful reality check for them. Most sellers aren&#8217;t hiding anything \u2014 they genuinely don&#8217;t know their upper control arm is creaking. A neutral third-party inspection keeps the conversation factual.<\/p>\n<h2>Red Flags That Should End the Deal<\/h2>\n<p>Some findings are worth walking away from, no matter how attractive the price:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Refusal to allow an independent inspection.<\/strong> There is no good reason for this.<\/li>\n<li><strong>A battery with an active fault, charging limitation, or reduced power message.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li><strong>Evidence of structural or casting repair<\/strong> on a car with a clean title.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Supercharging disabled<\/strong> or a history that doesn&#8217;t match the title.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Significant water intrusion<\/strong> with corrosion already underway.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Heat damage at the charge port<\/strong> or on the high-voltage connectors.<\/li>\n<li><strong>A VIN mismatch<\/strong> between the car, the title, and the listing.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>When to Schedule the Inspection<\/h2>\n<p>Book the Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection after you&#8217;ve agreed on a tentative price but before you sign anything or transfer funds. Make the purchase contingent on the inspection in writing if you&#8217;re dealing with a dealer.<\/p>\n<p>For private-party sales, a mobile inspection is especially practical: the mechanic comes to wherever the car is sitting, so the seller doesn&#8217;t have to hand over keys and drive across town, and you don&#8217;t have to coordinate three schedules. For more context on EV ownership costs and official range ratings to compare against, the U.S. Department of Energy&#8217;s fuel economy site publishes original EPA range figures by model year \u2014 useful for calculating how much capacity a used pack has actually lost.<\/p>\n<h2>Book a Mobile Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection With Novo Repairs<\/h2>\n<p>You shouldn&#8217;t have to take a stranger&#8217;s word for the condition of a car you&#8217;re about to spend tens of thousands of dollars on. Novo Repairs sends a certified mechanic directly to the vehicle \u2014 at the seller&#8217;s home, a dealership lot, or wherever the Model 3 happens to be \u2014 and performs a full Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection on site.<\/p>\n<p>You get a clear written report covering battery health indicators, drive unit and suspension condition, brake measurements, body and collision evidence, charging function, and every electronic system in the car. No upselling, no vague verdicts \u2014 just an honest assessment of what you&#8217;re buying and what it&#8217;s likely to need.<\/p>\n<p>If the car checks out, you buy with confidence. If it doesn&#8217;t, you&#8217;ve saved yourself from a problem that would have been yours forever. Either way, it&#8217;s the cheapest part of the transaction. Schedule your Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection with Novo Repairs and find out exactly what&#8217;s under that glass roof before the keys change hands.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A used Tesla Model 3 hides its condition differently than a gas car \u2014 battery health, drive unit noise, and body panel repairs matter more than oil changes. Here&#8217;s exactly what a Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection should cover before you hand over the money.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"template":"","meta":{"_novo_reviewed":"0","_novo_read_time":"","_novo_difficulty":"","_novo_faqs":[],"_novo_quality_score":"100","_novo_quality_band":"review","_novo_quality_coverage":"0.23","_novo_quality_fails":"","_novo_quality_at":"2026-10-08 13:16:38","_novo_target_keyword":"Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection","_novo_meta_title":"Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection: 9 Essential Checks","_novo_meta_description":"A Tesla Model 3 Pre-Purchase Inspection checklist: battery health, drive unit noise, collision repair signs, charging tests and red flags before you buy used.","footnotes":""},"novo-makes":[94],"novo-models":[240],"novo-problems":[42],"novo-areas":[],"class_list":["post-1479","novo_guide","type-novo_guide","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-guides\/1479","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-guides"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/novo_guide"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-guides\/1479\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1511,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-guides\/1479\/revisions\/1511"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1479"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"novo_make","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-makes?post=1479"},{"taxonomy":"novo_model","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-models?post=1479"},{"taxonomy":"novo_problem","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-problems?post=1479"},{"taxonomy":"novo_area","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novorepairs.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/novo-areas?post=1479"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}